Saturday, November 7, 2015

Vinicola Torres Allegre, Del Viko, Baja, Mexico


Over the Summer I traveled to Mexico for a little exploring. And, of course, I was interested in tasting the wines of the region. While riding my bike in Tulum, I came across the intriguing, Le Tente Rose. Like so many spots in this beautiful beach town I couldn't help but park my bike & take a closer look. 

My attempts at inquiring about natural or organic wines were met with a blank look and a not-so-inspiring head tilt. So, with a little help from my iPhone I discovered Del Viko was made with a natural spirit and organic. So, with my adventurous spirit took a shot. And, it so glad I did! This French Colombard/ Chenin Blanc blend stands out of the crowd in a place of mostly budget California imports. It's crisp, complex, clean. And, it hails from a one of Mexico's elite winemakers, Victor Torres Alegre.  

What I also discovered was the wine movement of the Guadalupe Valley in Baja, Mexico. Filled with interesting wines, winemakers and craft beer enthusiasts. One winemaker I'm intrigued by is Perez Castro of Finca La Carrodilla. He is young, self-taught and seems to have an intense passion for sustaining life. The vineyards are full of wildlife, bees and grapes. In a recent interview he was quoted saying, "With a young wine, we are trying to pay respect to what the wine is giving us,". Sounds like a winemaker I might just like. The winery is also the only in the area to become certified organic. 

I think it's worth keeping an eye on this region and for these winemakers. And, here's to travel, adventure and wine. Muchas gracias!

A little more:
Vinicola Torres Alegre
One of Mexico's elite winemakers, Victor Torres Alegre (above), greeted tasters in the enclave devoted to wines produced in Mexico. Torres Alegre was the first in his country to earn a doctorate in enology. And guess where he got it? The University of Bordeaux. 
Previously winemaker for Château Camou, he now has his own winery, the Vinícola Torres Alegre y Familia in the Guadalupe Valley. Above are two of his wines. See more at: http://www.eatmx.com/wines-and-liquor/#sthash.6vi0g1dz.dpuf

Finca La Carrodilla: Perez Castro
See more at: http://www.eatmx.com/2015/08/finca-la-carrodilla.html#sthash.RPontsSt.dpuf

Friday, November 6, 2015

Un Saumon Dans la Loire 'La Boutanche' Rosé


Frantz Saumon makes some really good wines that are both seriously well-made and delicious. The gator label combined with the beautiful pink color just makes me want to be silly. It makes me hope that one sip will transport me back to blowing bubbles with my over-chewed gum, on a warm Summer day, while writing overly sappy teenage songs with my teenage best friend. It's a big order.

Thing is, it kind of delivers. Proof in the pictures. I kept forgetting to take a picture when the bottle was full! Which wasn't long. I gave it my best shot! Although, there's no bubble gum in this rose', there is refreshingly crisp, dense and delicious juice. I noted some herbaceous notes balancing a mouthful of beautiful red fruit (cherries!).

It's a well-priced jewel in the cannon of Rose's covering the walls of wine stores in the Bay Area. One note: I think this wine seems to have a little SO2. Not a dealbreaker but since I write this blog mostly so I can remember the rockstars from the impersonators -- it's worth a note.

However, it definitely rocks.

Julien Guillot,Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Pouilly Fuisse


This is a producer that I am so glad to know. Not too surprisingly, I came late to the Guillot party, but I'm just glad I showed up. And, I grabbed a drink.

I was first introduced to this producer in a blind tasting. I was taken immediately but the laser beam clarity of this Pouilly Fuisse which immediately made it stand out. To my palette it is delicate and so, so pretty. It's clarity, subtle floral notes and lovely balance gives this wine an edge. It's fine on it's own and lovely with food.

It's just got style. And, class. What else do you need? Well, I guess one thing... it doesn't have a lot to go around. I bought the only bottle left on site. But, I'm sure if you're intrigued... you'll succeed in finding another Guillot treasure.

A little more about Julien Guillot:
From: Not Drinking Poison http://notdrinkingpoison.blogspot.com/2015/05/julien-guillot-clos-des-vignes-du.html

Tucked among the fulsome green hills of Sagy-le-Haut is the cellar of Julien Guillot, the charming third-generation winemaker of biodynamic Mâconnais domaine Clos des Vignes du Maynes. Before returning to run the domaine in his late twenties, Guillot, who is of telegenic height and fresh-faced in his forties, had a career as an actor in France. He is conspicuously good at marketing his wines. Their prices in Paris and the US testify to this. His Bourgogne rouge "Cuvée Auguste" costs more than your average Marsannay.

What Clos des Vignes du Maynes' appellations lack in grandeur is made up for in the domaine's unimpeachable history and winemaking acumen. Julien's grandfather, Pierre Guillot, practiced a nascent version of organic viticulture ever since purchasing the domaine in 1954. Later, Julien's father Alain was instrumental in helping get the agriculture biologique (organic) logo approved by the French government in 1984. Julien, for his part, initiated the domaine's conversion to biodynamic viticulture in 1998. Upon hearing Guillot recount this in the anteroom of his cellar, my friend C posed a great question: "What did people in the region call 'organic' before 'organic' existed?"

Guillot grinned, and with the confidence that comes from having been right, replied, "Les conneries de Guillot," or 'Guillot's bullshit.' Read More

Laurent Saillard's Chenin Blanc, 'Lucky You!'

I discovered this wine when I asked for a recommendation to pair with a mild blue cheese. Although, I have come to think this wine is aptly named I had been avoiding it as I was initially turned off by the spirit of it. 

However, that was all quickly washed away after a few sips paired with a delicious Fourme d'Ambert 

Although there is some volatility in this reasonably priced Chenin Blanc, I thought it stabilized enough to show off it's complexity. 

I found lovely mellow, even acidity combined with a distinctive minerality that always reminds me of the sea (and, love!). The fresh, happy experience I discovered at the start with this whimsical white wine was followed by a silky note of almond at the finish. 

Like getting a little prize in each bottle. It made this wine interesting, fun and enjoyable -- to the last sip. 

So, if you find a bottle, I'd definitely say, Lucky You!

A little more about the man, Laurent Saillard: 
From THIRST WINE MERCHANTS:


Laurent Saillard co-founded ICI, one of the first Brooklyn restaurants to focus on natural wines, and was part of the wave of restaurants that opened about a decade ago that were referred to as New Brooklyn Cuisine. We used to love going to ICI and spending time with him. He was always eager to share new and interesting wines.
Laurent left Brooklyn a few years ago and moved to the Loire to learn how to make the natural wines he’d enjoyed drinking and selling. He began by  working in the vineyards for Clos Roche Blanche and Noella Morantin. His first release under his own name, La Pause, was  the 2012 vintage. He continues to work for others during the week and to make his wines on the weekend.
Laurent currently makes two wines: a dry Chenin Blanc called Lucky You! and  a super fresh Gamay, La Pause.