Saturday, June 13, 2015

Le Puits_2014 Olivier Lemasson

Le Puits, Vin de France, 2014, is a reflection of the soil and the sun from where it was born. The structure is very direct -- it presents itself very neatly with a brightness that guarantees it to be refreshing. Although, it clearly knows what and who it is -- it isn't just one note. That's just the beginning.

It is a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, with a hint of flint on the nose and aromas of ripe fruit when opened. The mouth is bright with wonderful acidity, citrus fruit, and a delicate undertone of vanilla. The alcohol for this vintage is 12%. It is perfect for a lazy late afternoon in the sun and all Summer long.

Just as an observation, I seem to be noticing more Vin de France (French table wines) establishing a place in the natural wine marketplace. The reasons for having to designate the wine as Vin de France seems steeped in history, territory and bureaucracy -- but from what I can tell, after drinking Le Puits, it isn't about quality (anymore). 

Olivier Lemasson has a wonderful story that begins as a Sommelier in Brittany, France, many years ago. The story goes he stumbled across natural wines then and hasn't stopped pursuing these odd wines since. A spark was ignited in him that put him on a path where now he has practically achieved cult wine status -- and is selling his many varietals at places such as, Le Verre Volé and many more. Apparently, his rose', 'Pow Blop Wizz' is a must-have for Summer, if you can find it.

His many different wines all have playful names, and come from organic farms, or his own small parcel. Although, he seems to have a whimsical side, he also seems to apply a serious focus when it comes to his winemaking practices; no yeasts, no filtration and minimal intervention (sometimes adding sulphites when needed -- however, I couldn't tell if he did in this vintage). 

By all accounts, Olivier is full of personality, passion and a rich history -- just like this wine. And, I can't wait to come back to the well and try more.

http://www.lesvinscontes.com/

Purchased at Ordinaire, Oakland
Approx. $20

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Bengoetxe Getariako Txakolina 2012


This wine is perfect for a warm day, and by today's wine standards, a good deal at $20 a bottle. It doesn't hurt that it's from Spain, either.  
I found it refreshing and lively. Its complexity is enhanced by the balance of subtle apple, bright lemon and the perfect amount of acidity -- which makes it a pleasure to drink. 
The low alcohol and mineral finish compliment this wine and when paired with cheese, salty meats or smoked fish it's wonderful.  
The farmhouse, on the label, sits in the middle of this fully organic farm which is tended exclusively by hand in Olaberria; about 30 miles inland from San Sebastian. No chemicals are used at the vineyard, or in the cellar  -- making it a biodynamic farm and a very natural wine, as well. 
Despite having had this philosophy since the beginning, the owners, Iñaki and Rosa Mari Exteberria had to pursue a D.O. classification rigorously. They were granted D.O. status in 2009. 
For this area, I think this is a rare wine  -- both in production standards and, for me, in quality. It is a wonderful example of what living wines can be when allowed to show their true expression of place and time -- not to mention love. 
Another treasure from España.
This label is to help you read the name. It is not the correct vintage
http://www.josepastorselections.com/bengoetxe.html

Friday, June 5, 2015

Alice & Olivier De Moor_Aligote 2013

I was intrigued by this wine after I read about the de Moor's, Alice and Olivier. I read about their commitment to creating natural wines, on small plots, in Chablis. The story presented the couple as a united front tending their vineyards by hand and creating their natural wines together. Some important aspects of their creations include farming organically and sustainably, using natural yeast and oak barrels. I liked what I read and I've kept an eye out for their bottled time since. The search finally came to an end last week when my quest for interesting wines led me to a little corner of the wine store where this bottle was tucked away. I'm not sure why it was so hidden, but my guess, someone was coveting it. I know I would.

I was so excited to try it. It didn't disappoint. Crisp and full-bodied - it went well with truffle cheese and perfect for salty crackers. The rich finish pairs well with sweet potato fries and the subtle apple flavor was a wonderful companion to smoked salmon and a simple salad.

I hear this vintage of Aligote', 2013, is a low yield, so there isn't much; but they produce quite a few wines, so if you see the de Moors on your search for wonderful natural wines -- I think you'll find you're in good hands.


Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Frederic Cossard, Bigotes 2012




What can I tell you? From the moment I opened this wine and sampled its subtle hint of lemon, limestone and vanilla I was under its spell. 

I can tell you I remember drinking it and loving it with each sip and each bite. I remember it was full-bodied and balanced with crisp acidity. At one moment, I would think it was lemony and in another I would pick up on the earthy vanilla base. It was all pure pleasure. 

It was a gift and since my only real impression was 'More!'... off  I went to the wine store to do just that, buy more. 

This is when I found out why the two women on the label seem to be in such shock! The price is over $50.00/btl. Not that it isn't worth it, however, for such an investment I would have liked to have shared it; especially, since it's a limited release and even so, a bit pricey for me to consider anything other than an indulgence.  

I now like to think of the 2 women on the label as me and, my friend, Sara (...without any connection to the provocative name of this far from offensive wine). Sara gave me the wine as a birthday gift. She is also a fan of natural wines.

Here's how I am choosing to see the label:  scene: two (open-minded & compassionate) old friends. Sara, in the pink hat, telling me what a special wine she thought the Bigotes is and hoping we can share it. Me, in the chic, orange kerchief, aghast, I already drank it and all alone! And, I enjoyed every sip. 

About this wine:

Frédéric Cossard has always wanted to become a winemaker. In 1996, he had the opportunity to get some small plots in Saint-Romain and Auxey-Duresses. The size of his domaine has regularly increased since then. He works in a very “eco-friendly” way, using no chemicals, fertilisers or pesticides. This simple “Bourgogne Chardonnay” is made out of a very small plot, planted with only chardonnay grapes located next to Puligny-Montrachet. It appears elegant, well balanced and quite fresh, like all the wines he produces. The nose consists of light citrus fruits and lemon aromas and a little bit of noble roasted oak.

https://www.wine-beast.com/frederic-cossard-bigotes-2011-0-75.html

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Ordinaire

I'm sitting in the sunny window at Ordinaire discussing with Giovanni the right words to describe 'Ordinaire'. It occurs to us, between sips of rose', that if it were a wine it would be our favorite!

If it were a wine, I might talk about the hints of french lavender and earthy oak that invite you to drink it in. I might try to explain how it's balanced and complex -- and how its character is complimented by the knowledgeable staff and the diversity of their customers. It's an experience for everyday, any day... today.


Bradford, the proprietor, thoughtfully
explaining the by-the-glass selections
To continue the theme, if it were music it would be Marley softly and convincingly crooning "...everything little thing will be alright" ...but, instead of a beach in Jamaica or a window seat in Oakland, you're in France, on a secluded bench overlooking the rolling, green hills of Ardeche -- in the warm afternoon sunlight, shaded by an old Cedar tree. There, you're sipping you're favorite wine with your favorite people. That's what Ordinaire can do... transport you.

Oakland is so fortunate to have a comfortable natural wine bar that puts itself squarely at the intersection of 'Friendly' and 'Cool'. You'll find interesting, rare and lovely natural wines combined with the area's (and beyond) up-and-coming and established - but difficult to reach -- chef's preparing exciting dishes in the occasional pop-up bistro (lucky if you find yourself there on a night Josh is cooking!).

Ordinaire vibrates with the culture I associate with natural wines; good food, natural ingredients, friends and sharing. Simple ...but not always easy.

I'm here on a Tuesday and Team Sabertime (Giovanni & Travis) are pouring -- and it feels like I just entered the familiar sunny home of a dear friend. Whether they know me or not, I am treated like a most-welcomed guest. As are the babies and dogs to my left, the energetic 20-something set behind me, and the newly initiated to natural wines from all ages and stages of life. All are welcome.

Yes, it's perfect for everyday -- it is vin Ordinaire, afterall, but it's also for those interested in experiencing something natural, soulful and different in a comfortable environment.

And, since it is a wine bar, a toast...

"May you thrive and prosper in good health, great friends and good wine. Sante!
                                                                                                             http://ordinairewine.com/
3354 GRAND AVENUE 
OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA