Vinos Ambiz_Albillo 2013

I have written about Vinos Ambiz in the past and I am a fan of their Chelva. 

Vinos Ambiz is the creation of Fabio Bartolomei who is producing amazing wine in Spain. All his wines, so far, are made from lesser-known, odd varietals -- which I think make them interesting and exciting to try. I discovered Fabio's wines, while traveling in Spain, and researching natural winemakers in the area. We couldn't find them there, but, since, I've sampled some of his efforts, and had an opportunity to talk with Jose Pastor (U.S. importer) about them. In all cases, I'm reassured of their uniqueness and Fabio's commitment to always be natural. And, so far, in my experience, these things ring true.

However, the Albillo is so high in alcohol I find it unapproachable. The nose has characteristics similar to Moscato with orange and honeysuckle springing to mind but it was all lost when I took a sip due to the alcohol. Unfortunately, I was only able to take a few more sips before my head was throbbing -- and my heart sinking. 

That's OK, I'll always have Chelva. Well, until it's gone. 

And, Vinos Ambiz has a wonderful blog: http://vinosambiz.blogspot.com/

The Wine Label: Going Organic

The Wine Label: Organic

In the U.S., there are strict labeling laws for wine. Wine labels—which must be pre-approved by TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco, Tax and Trade Bureau) —explains the bureau, are an important source of information for consumers.

Just as clarification, when I write 'strict labeling laws' it's not that I think the information is very important to a consumer, especially, in comparison to what the FDA requires on food. And, if you thought the FDA was narrow with their labels, wine is almost non-existent.  However, information requested by the TTB must be on the label for the wine to legally sell in the U.S.. In actuality, for a consumer, aside from which artwork you prefer, the label is pointless in terms of what ingredients made that wine.

The USDA is the certifying entity in the U.S. for food and beverages that want to use the term 'Organic' on their label. 

In order to receive approval to use the term 'Organic' on a wine label a producer must meet the following:

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1. Must develop, submit and implement an organic system plan to the USDA.

2. 100% of all grapes must be certified organic (no synthetic fertilizers, etc...).

3. All methods to convert grapes to wine must be certified organic (yeasts, etc..).

4. Any non-agricultural ingredients must be allowable per the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances and can not exceed 5% of the total product.  

5. No sulfites (sulfur dioxide) can be added.

*(To use 100% Organic a wine product must use 100% organic products eliminating #4's 5% buffer allowance)

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Wine in the U.S. sold, labeled, or represented as “made with organic grapes” must meet these criteria: 

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1. 100 percent of all grapes (of all varietals) must be certified organic. 

2. Any remaining agricultural ingredients (e.g., yeast) are not required to be organic, but must be produced without excluded methods. 

3. Any non-agricultural ingredients must be specifically allowed on the National List (link above). 

4. Sulfur dioxide (sulfites) may be added to yield less than 100 parts per million in finished grape wine, but may not be added to wine “made with” other organic fruit (e.g., apples). 

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Source:  USDA Organic labeling Guidelines

For more legal information: 
Lindsey Zahn is an alcohol beverage & food attorney in NY: On Reserve: A Wine Law Blog

Next up... To Certify or Not-to-Certify

A Toi Nous_ Andrea Calek

Andrea Calek is kind of like a rock star. And, the Bay Area is in love with him. He was born in Czechoslovakia (a country of contradictions, for sure!) but settled in Ardeche' after taking the long way around. His story is very interesting (if you're curious see the link below). His vineyard practices and winemaking techniques are reportedly as natural as they come.

He is said to be a bit rowdy, messy, hard to define and 'wild' (kind of sounds like he's having fun, huh?)-- and his wines, well there's nothing messy about them, they are considered nirvana. His mentor's are nothing short of legends in the handpicked fields of natural wines. And, he, in his own right, has developed a reputation for very technically accurate and a meticulous approach to producing good wines.

I was definitely intrigued. Everyone seemed to be buzzing with the name Andrea' Calek. At Terroir, Ordinaire and Paul Marcus people would smile at me, gleefully adorning grins of garnet-hued teeth, and tell me about their new 'favorite' wine. Finally, I wanted to drink-the-'Koolaid'.  So, I went with the only wine I could find of Andrea's, after his whirlwind tour of my city, which was a red Rhone blend.

It was a daring choice for me, given my track record with red wines. The nose was so beautiful; herbaceous (rosemary and lavender created an aromatic tour of a French garden), notes of lush berries made my mouth water and, finally, rounding it all out, earth and egg (I know, weird -- but true)! Finally, I couldn't wait and took a sip from which I was instantly reminded, with a burning sensation, that like so many other bold and beautiful red wines my body rejects them -- right at the moment it passes near my heart.

I think maybe I said something unpleasant to a supernatural winemaker and a curse was put on me (not to be all magical thinking about it -- but it makes sense, yes?).

I know it's OK though, Andrea' seems to have many groupies that are all willing to take my place -- and, although I'm a bit jealous of them -- it's probably for the best.  A Toi Nous.

http://www.tedwardwines.com/Andrea-Calek-P9506.aspx

Sophia & Adam ...are adorable. I.G.T Campania Bianco "Sophia"

For my birthday, I treated myself to one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco. The 'City' has many wonderful restaurants but SPQR is special to me for many reasons. I showed up before they opened and they let me take pictures before dinner started. It's such a beautiful space that I was touched by the attention to detail in every aspect. If you're not careful, you could fall in love in a space like this.

The restaurant has evolved over time to become an inventive yet approachable and exciting experience. The service is friendly and knowledgeable -- as well as very adept. SPQR has also expanded their wine selection to include a wonderful (if not small) natural wine offering. Another delightful aspect is that their bartenders can share stories about the wines and provide a detailed description of their unique natural wines -- as well as suggestions.

Here is where I discovered Sophia. This wine is so interesting. It's weight is balanced by chewy, bright acid, spicy herb and sweet ripe fruit making it refreshing and delicious. It's wonderful to begin the night with but I don't think Sophia is sticking around. She's exciting, full bodied and very adventurous -- I can tell she would demand my full attention and as I mentioned SPQR has many good things to offer. I can't wait until I find myself in her company again although she's a rare find. SPQR always has this effect on me -- in love and wanting more.

The winemakers behind "Sophia" and "David", as well as a few more labels, make their wines from ancient grapes, Fiano and Greco. The vineyards are located in Italy and were planted in the 1930's. The story goes, they have always been harvested, and the wine produced, using 'special techniques' or what's also known as 'methode ancestrale' -- although this term is most often associated with sparkling wine which these wines are not. Their wines are fermented using indigineous yeast and limited intervention --  in steel, barrels and in homemade amphora's sealed with beeswax which can not be broken open until the wine is done to prevent oxidation. The winemakers trust that the wine will produce what is meant to be for that years labor of love. 

I think 'Sophia' is an apt name, translated in English (from Greek) to 'Divine Wisdom'.

I.G.T Campania Bianco "Sophia"

Azienda Agricola COS and SPQR

Continuing the birthday celebration (See blog post, 'Sophia & Adam') -- I was offered a few more suggestions to pair with creations coming from the kitchen. When COS was first poured I wasn't sure. I decided it was a new bottle and might benefit from some time.

When the first course arrived I savored a bite and then sipped COS again -- it was heaven. What was once acidic, hot with alcohol and bitter -- had become silky and subtle. The structure was remarkable; the acid, now, more subtle and not overbearing -- but, I will say, to me, it's a 'food' wine.

It snuck in to all the right places and turned a little light on all the flavor components of the vegetable brioche I started the evening with -- the dance between wine and food was elegant and masterful. And, like a good dance partner, this wine lead me with confidence and grace throughout the second course before it slipped away leaving me with the feeling we would meet again.

I couldn't wait to learn more about this interesting wine and the winemakers. The story is almost better than the wine. I was seduced by statements such as,

"This would help them find and maintain a harmonious balance with nature, as well as craft wines that are as representative as possible of their time and place." 

I find that kind of thing exciting.

The vineyard was purchased by 3 friends in the '80's and they once held the title as the youngest winemakers in Italy. In the 1990's they adopted biodynamic vineyard practices and in 2000 received a shipment of clay amphora's (currently said to have one of largest collections in the world) and began a new identity by reclaiming ancient cellar practices -- as was done in ancient Greece.

Although they now seem more like the mega-conglomerates of Napa Valley and may have lost that earthy, hands on,  farm-to-table vibe that is so appealing -- the wine seems to know from where it roots came.

I think this winery is special and worth your time.

http://www.cosvittoria.it/english/

http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2013/04/the-other-cos--a-sicilian-success-story

Domaine Le Briseau

I am not sure what has happened but Le Briseau from Domaine Le Briseau is like a roller coaster of disappointment.

To my palette, it took me through many twists and turns and instead of being thrilling -- it was just disorienting. I feel this is sacrilege to write as Domaine Le Briseau, started by the late Christian Chaussard, said to be one of the Loire Valley's most prominent natural winemakers, created such a storied legacy.

But, unless I stumbled on a 'bad' bottle, this wine is not for me. It's busy with oxidation, bitterness and confusion. It lacks balance and seems to separate immediately into 3 categories; bitter acid, over-ripe fruit and overly floral.

I usually love Chenin Blanc from the Loire so this was disappointing. It might even be one of my go-to wines. 

The name Le Briseau (I read) losely translates to 'the shatterer'. The vines that produced the grapes had to persevere through a solid layer of flint. It is said that many tools break here, and even, that Christian himself, died near this clos and his ashes spread throughout the vineyard.

The vines are over 60 years old. With that in mind, I considered that the wine might need some time to breathe. I left it out for an hour. Nope. Overnight. Nope. 3 days, 1 week... no improvement.

Although, it makes me sad and curious that perhaps another vintage or even bottle might be a better representative; I'm not shattered. I'll continue on to discover other fruits and their attempts at bottled joy.

RAW FAIR _LONDON_ MAY 17 & 18

Ah, RAWfair! Having attended last years event, I can tell you from my experience, there is such an excitement around this whole event. From the restaurants involved (Elliots, Brawn, etc...), to the small, lesser-known tastings tucked into hidden corners of the city -- it's hard not to get caught up in the spirit of pleasure & discovery. I shared this time with someone very special and we shared a passion for the 'natural' life --  it definitely played a role in my overall experience of this event. However, whether you're solo, in a relationship or just curious; if you love natural wines, food and the culture that embraces it -- you'll love this event. 

FROM THEIR WEBSITE:

RAW is a two-day celebration of some of the best wine talent in the world. Featuring over 150 growers, RAW is one of the most exciting collections of fine, natural, organic and biodynamic wine artisans ever to come together in the capital. Their wines are pure, kind to the planet, very possibly better for your health and best of all they're absolutely delicious. 

RAW is leading the charge for transparency. We believe that in an ideal wine world, any processing and additives will be clearly communicated to the drinker so that you know exactly what is in your glass. RAW is a first step in this direction - we will clearly list all additives and processing on both the website and fair catalogue. We are proud to be leading the way. 

RAW Fair May 2014

Maltby Street Tasting

                                                  

For More Information:

http://www.rawfair.com/

                                                      

The artisans who will be in attendance:

                  http://www.rawfair.com/2015/artisans

Madrids Mini-Natural Wine Fair _PRODUCER LIST

This looks fun!
When: May 10th
Cost: 5 Euros!
Plane ticket: 1720.00

For those who can attend: Here's the list of the producers:
For more info: http://vinosambiz.blogspot.com/

– Alexandre Coulange – Domaine Thuronis – Languedoc
– Jacques Broustet – Chateau Lamery – Burdeos
– Nacho González – La Perdida – Valdeorras
– Bárbara Magugliani y Joan Carles Torres – Can Torres – Ampurdán
– Manel Rodríguez – Wiss – Montsant
– Marcel Carrera y Ramón Viña – Vinya Ferrer – Terra Alta
– Miguel J. Márquez – Dagón – Valencia
– Rafa López – Sexto Elemento – Valencia
– Fabio Bartolomei – Ambiz – Madrid
– Julián Ruiz – Esencia Rural – Toledo
– Samuel Cano – Patio – Cuenca
– Juan Pascual López – Viña Enebro – Murcia
– Jose Miguel Márquez – Marenas – Montilla
– Ramón Saavedra – Cauzón – Granada
– Torcuato Huertas – Purulio – Granada
– Manuel y Lorenzo Valenzuela – Barranco Oscuro – Granada

And you'll be able to taste the wines of:
– Domaine Meyer – Alsacia

– Patrick Bouju – Auvernia
– Costadilá – Veneto
– Frank Cornelissen – Sicilia

Lamoresca - Filippo Rizzo

Lamoresca - Filippo Rizzo

According to Selectionsnaturel, Filippo, a former restauranteur, and his wife, Nancy, began talking about serving natural wines, at restaurants, outside of Paris, when they first met-- and, now they are considered founders of the natural wine movement, especially in Italy. They tirelessly work their farm in Sicily, by hand, bringing the beauty of it to life in each bottle. This, I know, because when we met them at RAW, Nancy explained their work with such passion it compelled me. The taste from that day stayed with my memory -- where I thought it was destined to stay... until I found a bottle at Ruby.  

Lamoresca Bianco is made of 100% Vermentino and is macerated on the skins for a long period of time. This can yield an orange wine in color. The difficult Sicilian earth and ripe rock fruit continue their work together by producing a deeply soulful exchange. The wines balance and harmony come from the  bright acidity.  I'm a fan of their efforts, style, story and wine.  For me, always with cheese. For others, perhaps with smoked meats and nuts, too.

www.agrimoresca.it  

Found: Ruby Wine Shop
Importer: Selectionsnaturel

http://www.selectionaturel.com/producers/lamoresca​

Domaine Le Grain de Sénevé, 500 Metres, Beaujolais Villages,

I don't typically drink red wine anymore. My body often rejects them. It's very sad for me, especially, since there was a time when I drank them with joy.

Sometimes, however, one comes along that is very gentle with me. I was surprised that it was a Gamay from Beaujolais. The wine offers up raisins, berries and a hint of rich earth on a delicate hand that lingers in such a seductive way it’s hard not to be taken with it. The alcohol is 10.5% which appeals to me in so many ways. The tannins and acid are so clean and refreshing – but give the wine its interest. I think this is an all weather wine that is a perfect companion for celebrating or longing. I can say, without reservation, I love this wine.  

"Hervé works biodynamically and plows his steep slopes with the help of his horse (hilariously named “Reggae Nights”) The grapes are harvested with the help of friends and family and fermented whole cluster in concrete without any additives and then pressed via a massive, 100 year old press in the winery that ‘s attached to the house."

Read more: source: 

http://henrysbk.com/product/domaine-le-grain-de-seneve-500-metres-beaujolais-villages-2013/

Love & Collar Bones - Louisa Mary Smith

A Louisa Mary Smith bottling is a rare sight.  I was lucky enough to stumble on a bottle at Vin Ordinaire in Oakland.  Louisa Smith worked with Kevin Kelley, as his assistant winemaker, which gives those who love Kevin’s wines a sense of her style. Her labels have donned the name, ‘Love and Collar Bones’, which I find poetic.  And, like collar bones sometimes do, she, and her wines, stick out. 

For a young winemaker she seems to have the soul of a vintner from a distant time. Her Chardonnay from Anderson Valley was bright and delicate; balanced with perfect acidity and subtle fruit (for me pear and lychee). I brought this wine to share with friends and we paired it with oysters, salad, cheese and crostini – it met each course with perfection. Everyone agreed it was the best wine of the night! If there’s a down side to this wine it is its limited production. I guess that could be the good side too.

I found it hard to find much written about this up and coming wine star but here's a nibble:

"Loving the wines coming out of Kevin's cellar, she returned the past 4 years for harvests to eventually become his assistant winemaker. Louisa has been influential in a lot of the sparkling wine coming out of Salinia’s cellar. This year she was able to start making small batches of her own wine." 

Source: http://www.tedwardwines.com/Assets/livingroom/techsheets/T08110.pdf

Vinos Ambiz Chelva - The Wait Is Over...

I'm so glad to report... my patience did finally run out.

There's no way for me to adequately describe my enjoyment of this wine. When I finally opened it I had resigned myself to accepting whatever form it came in. You see, the color, cloudiness and varietal had me a bit unsure as to what to expect.

The first moment I inhaled this honeyed hued liquid it was pure pleasure. Notes of faintly burnt caramel wrapped around a tart and fragrant green apple danced around my senses. I was transported to a hot day at the bodega. My work finally done I can rest in the late afternoon glow of the setting sun with a glass of this golden elixir -- transcedent.

I couldn't restrain my excitement at tasting and quickly sipped it. Although I was disappointed in my rushing the process and maybe should have savored its aromatic and telling nose longer; I was not disappointed in the results. The complex wine; chewy, tart and fruity -- made me giddy. It's at once weighty and refreshing. It captured my attention and held it. I continued to sip and try this wine with different foods-- but found that I enjoyed it most as a solo journey. I bought two more bottles the next day; just so it's not completely solo. If I had a criticism it would be that the alcohol is a bit high, 13 degrees, and can be a bit sneaky, but still lower than many (most?) wines. 

With the weeks work done I smiled with a bittersweet happiness. These moments leave me longing to share such discoveries -- I feel they live longer with two. But, alas, one will do.



And, Vinos Ambiz has a wonderful blog: http://vinosambiz.blogspot.com/
















Importer product page:
http://www.josepastorselections.com/uploads/1/3/9/1/13912267/ambiz_chelva_2013_.pdf

A little more about the Chelva Experiment:
http://www.organicwinejournal.com/index.php/2013/10/harvest-report-2013-spain-vinos-ambiz/