Tuesday, March 31, 2015

More about Sulfites

Sulfites and Wine


Sulfites occur naturally in all wine, it's a natural by-product of the fermentation process. The sulfite levels through the natural process are very low (0-15 ppm). However, often times, a preservative is added to the winemaking process to either arrest fermentation, prevent spoilage or oxidation, as well as other reasons. Some compounds used may be; sulphur dioxide (chemical oxide) resulting in SO2 or sulfites when added to water/wine, potassium bisulfite and sodium bisulfite. These compounds raise the levels of SO2 in a wine and introduce more chemicals to the wine you're going to drink.

Natural wine producers, and to a large extent, certified Organic wine makers, work with what comes and do not add any preservatives to the wine making process.  Some might say, they welcome the diversity. 

These farmers rely on the health of their vineyards, through conscious farming practices, they believe in the strength of their vineyards to grow great grapes.  These vineyards are farmed in such a way that they produce grapes with diverse flora that will aid in the natural fermentation and, the hope is, will result in quality wines that age well in the cellar. 

In other words, not adding sulfites isn't necessarily a bad business plan for these producers but can certainly create challenges. Just a brief note on some of those challenges: one such challenge is producing a wine different from what has been commercially accepted by the generally public and educating the consumer about natural wines -- as well as the varied taste profile. Making enough wine and, in some cases, a product that will last on the shelf are other challenges too.

According to the The Organic Wine Company the level of sulfites in wine is measured in “ppm”, or parts per million. In the United States, conventionally made wines are permitted to contain up to 350ppm of sulfites (included in this are the compounds mentioned above).

Organic wine-making typically limits the threshold level of sulfites to 100ppm, and levels are generally much lower (around 40ppm to 80 ppm)*. By current USDA Organic Standard, any wine, foreign or domestic, can contain only naturally occurring sulfites (less than 10ppm*) to be marketed and sold as an “organic wine” (Source/Website: The Organic Wine Company)

Saturday, March 28, 2015

my wine wishlist... march 2015

Some wines I'm wishing for... 
  • Rivers Marie B.A. Thieriot Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 
  • Julien Meyer Muenchberg Grand Cru Nature Riesling (love this wine)
  • Pingus PSI Tempranillo
  • Olivier Cousin Pur Breton
  • Francois Mikulski Meursault
  • Alexander Bain
  • Griottes
  • Peter Lauer Fab 16
  • Petrichor Red

Rivers Marie B.A. Thieriot Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2012Julien Meyer Muenchberg Grand Cru Nature Riesling 1999Pingus PSI 2011


Alexandre Bain Pouilly-Fumé 2012Griottes Sauvageonne 2008Peter Lauer Fab 16 Riesling Trocken 2011

      Olivier Cousin Pur Breton U.V. Francois Mikulski Meursault 2011 Petrichor Red 2011


Les Gruches - Domaine Bobinet

To find this high of quality natural wine anywhere is reason enough to celebrate but when you find it at your favorite neighborhood natural wine bar, Ordinaire, well, let the celebration begin. 

It seems that after an encounter with esteemed natural winemaker Olivier Cousins, Sébastien was determined to make wines that expressed the terroir without intervention. The influences didn't stop. Given wise counsel from champions of natural wine; producer Jules Chauvet of the Beaujolais, and the Loire’s Foucault brothers -- this wine is representative of how fine natural wine can be made.

The essence of this wine is truth. It goes beyond organic, biodynamic or natural -- these techniques come from the heart, the earth and a way of living in and with the world. The results are a true expression of the clay and limestone soil those familiar with Saumur will appreciate. But, what truly captivated me was how history, collaboration and nature come together to create a complex wine with a perfect finish.  A fairy tale come to life. 

Each bottle tells the story of the land, chance encounters and passion. Timeless.

Thank you Percy Selections!


Les Gruches Saumur 2013

COSTADILÁ COL FUNDO

This Prosecco style wine is as pure an example of how good natural wine, with no intervention, can be -- minimalism; like the label implies, is beautiful. This is a rare wine and even rarer producer -- returning to the ancestral way of producing Prosecco called Methode Ancestral; a completely natural way of making Prosecco. 

When the cap is lifted, fine bubbles drift to the top born of the indigenous yeast found lingering in the bottom of the bottle and the citrus aroma begins to unfurl memories of better days -- sunshine, warmth, happy. 

I think that's what I would have named it. 

Costadila 280 Slm U.V.

Dinavolo Bianco

On a recent trip to NYC; in the dead of Winter and a day after Paris, and the world, grieved the terrible events of January 7th, we stumbled into a little wine shop in the East Village. 

Like a beacon in the storm she beckoned to us. There, with two bottles remaining, a sense of promise and excitement glimmered in our hearts and our defeated hands. At home, we found an herbaceous and full nose -- the cidery notes; crisp and complex lifted our spirits and the rich, earthy minerality combined with crunchy acid made Dinavolo a divine wine; with or without food. 

Each sip eased us back into reality and reminded us of how joy can spring from the least likely place. Pretty good wine. 


Dinavolo Bianco

Bellwether Riesling 2012

Taste profile is promising enough with subtle notes of ripe fruit in the nose but balance is off with the acetic profile and sharp edges -- I won't go so far as calling it angular or diffused -- unfortunately, it's a Hall & Oats ("I can't go for that") wine for me.


Reisling 2012

Vinos Ambiz_Chelva Fabio Bartolomei

Ambiz Sobremadre Madrid Malvar 2013When in Spain we visited the wonderful natural wine bar 'Bar Brutal'. I asked if they sold Fabio Bartolomei and I was told, to my great disappointment, "No".  A few weeks ago, and back home in the Bay Area, I was walking through Paul Marcus Wines, when suddenly my wish granted. Tucked away, in a quiet corner of the shop, was this bottle of glowing liquid gold.

And, for those with keen observation skills, you'll notice it's full! This is what patience looks like: an unopened cloudy bottle of Fabio Bartolomei natural wine in my home.

I love the cloudiness and the promise this wine holds.  And, maybe, this is what desire looks like too, a little....  I can't wait to try it -- but mostly to share it.

I know my patience will run out soon.



http://www.josepastorselections.com/uploads/1/3/9/1/13912267/ambiz_chelva_2013_.pdf

Arnot-Roberts Rose

I hold this wine in great esteem -- yes, for its delicate features and, also, for the treasured memories it helped to create. Beautiful fragrant bouquet -- elegant and complex in the mouth with notes of luscious berries and the right amount of acid. It's a perfect day when this bottle is opened -- and shared. California wine producers making good, clean -- treasured wines.

Arnot-Roberts Rosé 2012

lit Rozzo Vino Blanco

It's always exciting to me to find a wine as brawny yet honeyed as this gem and you definitely quickly realize you're safely drinking from the natural world with your first sip. However, the viscosity can make it seem thick and syrupy possibly lending itself to lose it's complexity and tire you out. 

Alas, the same things that made me love him; make him a challenge; the viscosity and acetic profile make this wine one I'm happy to drink in small doses and will come back to for a few days. It's good to know these wines exist but may not be a permanent dinner guest.

This is one of the wines that's a great example of the variation you can get in natural wines. Sometimes you get cidery wines or sherry like; sometimes not. In my opinion, it's a great example of this spectrum.

Bianco 2013

Los Pilares Sparkling Muscat

Well, hello San Diego! Now they really do have it all! This wine sparkles with sunshine from the coast and tastes of cider from what has to be the apple orchard from which this wine is born. It's a bit overwhelming and can muddy the flavor of many foods but as an aperitif it's unique and charming -- like a good dinner guest.

San Diego Sparkling muscat 2014

Matthiasson Napa Valley Rosé

This is lovely and delicate to my palate. What it lacks in structure and mid-palate excitement it makes up for in class and low alcohol -- light notes of berry (especially strawberry) and good acidity make it so appealing with food or without. I picked up a bottle for a quiet night at home. A perfect companion. 

Matthiasson is a California wine producer making beautiful and clean wines worthy of notice.

Matthiasson Napa Valley Rosé 2014

Fox Hill Rose


Although there are wonderful berry notes, including strawberry and a valiant attempt at balance coming from the mineral base betraying this wines home turf the alcohol is too high and it feels too wild (especially for a wine that is parading as a delicate flower). 

It's not a bad idea, especially if you're interested -- but don't say I didn't warn you. 

Fox Hill Rose 2013

Yann Durieux Love And Pif

I want you.

Yann Durieux Love And Pif

Jolly Ferriol Pet' Nat

This wine makes me want to say things... weird, out-of-character, funny and perhaps, even loving things.  Try it for yourself, if you can find it. Maybe it's the hints of rock fruit and good acidity or the floral notes found in the nose hinting at a more complex story -- pure, living wine. Time in a bottle. Blablablanc ... never sounded so good.


Jolly Ferriol Pet' Nat 2012

La Dilettante - Catherine & Pierre Breton

In my own opinion, you can't talk natural wines without talking about Catherine & Pierre Breton. La Dilettante is a more widely produced, and more easily found in the U.S.; it's also a more approachable wine. It's a wonderful introduction and such legacy too, however, keep in mind it's not their best offering.

Their famous poster (below) hangs in the doorway like a talisman at The Verre Vole, Mecca for natural wines. The image beckons you, welcomes you and tells you what you can expect and who -- so don't miss your chance. But, just know, when you do find La Dilettante, the journey has begun.



Image result for la dilettante wine

Image result for pierre and catherine breton poster

Seduction & Sensuality

This is an example of what the beginning of a lifetime love affair looks like -- Meursault and Cote Rotie; or should I say, Seduction and Sensuality - combine forces with deep attraction, authentic connection and snowy winter nights -- and, she never had a chance.


Dirty & Rowdy Sémillon

This California wine hails from two couples that made a pact to make wines that they would want to drink... and I am glad they did. Dirty and Rowdy Semillon has a rich mouthfeel with pure fruit flavor different from the Napa/Sonoma flavor profiles. It's more exotic than I remember finding in more manipulated wines. It's a treat. But, for me, it's a bit heavy and sometimes feels a little confused. I know it's on the way to clarity. I feel it's a stellar effort and if you're interested in finding a wonderful example of cleaner wines in the U.S. than you're in luck!

Dirty & Rowdy Sémillon 2012

Angiolino Maule Masieri

Full bodied Italians are a dime a dozen but this white wine hailing from Northern Italy is a member of a very proud Italian family known for beautiful red wines -- as well as being a trailblazer in the natural wine movement. Angiolino is the founder of VinNatur, Italy's largest association of natural growers, and an artist, also, by nature.

This wine, in my opinion, seems to highlight his artistry. As I ponder this review, holding a now empty bottle, I wondered how a heavy glass bottle with a deep punt, typically found holding a red wine, factors into my overall feeling of this wine.

I choose to see what's inside and decide I like this wine, it tells the story of the land it comes from with notes of figs, pears and rock fruit balanced by lovely acidity. However, for me, it can sometimes be a bit unpredictable and, this vintage seems to lack complexity which is too bad as it's got all the potential for greatness. I made it a pizza night -- which I'm sure the pizzaiolo owner, Angiolino, can appreciate -- I know I did.


Angiolino Maule Masieri 2013

Un Saumon Dans La Loire Sauvignon

I'm on the fence... I feel like I've been faced with a guy who claims his intentions are pure and at first glance seems sincere -- but after he wears you down you realize he's not completely authentic and things sour quickly.


Un Saumon Dans La Loire Sauvignon

Cheverny U.V.

This is the kind of wine that surprises you... the price point is perfect. You get crisp acidity and easy drinking at a value.


Cheverny

Mendall White

Mendall! The name of this wine makes me think of the boy in school everyone picked on ... well, like the best after school specials, this wine prevails... and steals all the girls (or guys). This wine is worth a second and third look... maybe, even a long term relationship. It's fresh, crisp and glowing.

Yep. It glows.


Mendall White 2008

Premier Rendez-vous - L&B Jousset

The name of this wine is apt when considering my last love & loss. But, these producers are so special it's worth the pain.

Their Exile' label wines (white & rose') are worthy of your time and table -- do try them if you have the chance as all their wines are limited production. However, this label, is a cut above Exile'. It's beautiful, complex; with chewiness and acidity balancing each other out leaving room in the palette for a lovely finish full of fruits of Loire. It's the place to be... anytime.

Lise et Bertrand Jousset Premier Rendez-Vous Montlouis Sur Loire 2012

Monday, March 23, 2015

Anatheme ... Mont de Marie

Sometimes you hit upon a surprising discovery. Sitting at Terroir in the East Village trying to find the courage to taste through a few wines hoping to find something special -- something that could make us believe warmer days may come again (both inside and out) -- Anatheme was opened. With a shrug the bartender slid the glass over and smiled -- yes, she is sunshine. It didn't take long until we knew warmth was in our hands.

This is a rare find so if you come across it don't expect it to cross your path again -- embrace and cherish your time together. 

More please.



No Sulfites, Please... A Short List.

Costadila
Some producers who report they do not add any sulfites to their wines:

Serraghia (Sicily)
Frank Cornelissen (Sicily)
Lamoresca* (beautiful wine from Sicily)
Podere Pradarolo (Emilia Romagna)
Cinque Campi (Emilia Romagna)
Casa Caterina (Lombardy)
Costadila (Italian/ Veneto wine made in the Prosecco style)
Casa Belfi (Veneto)
Weingut Karl Schnabel (Austria)
Strohmeier (Austria)
2Naturekinder (Franken)

Lamoresca

Brutal, Spain & Els Bassotets

Ah, Spain ... 

Something I love about living wines is the strong sense of place they capture. The Els Bassotes wine captured my heart and then refused to let go -- one reason a bit of it remains in Espana. When I see this label, I think of a tucked away hotel in Regencos, a small cafe off the square in Begur and an afternoon of delights in Barcelona. It is delightful, beautiful refreshing and timeless -- representing the best parts of Spain. I hope it makes you smile like It does me.


                                               


Scenes & wines from Bar Brutal in Barcelona.
Bar Brutal is a wine bar serving only natural wines and amazing food. 

London Calling...Elliots, Brawn, 40 Maltby...

Maltby Tasting - Left corner:Sebastien from Domain Bobinet
On our first trip to London we found such energy around the natural wine movement. Wherever we went, they seemed giddy to share their love of discovery and tasting natural wines. Elliots and Brawn are restaurants where we instantly felt at home, with friends who shared our passion. It seems to be like that in the natural wine culture... you meet like-minded, and hearted, people sitting next to you or across the bar, and you know, somehow, you've met a friend.
RAWFair 2014 - London

We returned in July, for the RAW fair, and the energy all around us was electric. It was a disorienting and exciting when after a long walk we found tucked way, behind the bustling markets, an old cave filled with natural winemakers, from all over Europe. Some of these winemakers were here only for this intimate and obscure tasting, rather than Raw, some were here for both. All were pouring the most ancient recipe made more poetic by London's own history living within the cavernous wall of this catacomb.


At the fair itself the air was filled with expectation and light (not to mention uncharacteristic heat!).
Wine, natural food vendors and familiar faces made for making friends and memories quickly. When you're faced with such abundance you can either feel overwhelmed or gratitude; and, possibly both. I can still feel the gratitude of abundance; love, passion and sensuality bloomed in this week and we lingered in its embrace and continue to drink it in whenever I can.

Les Gruches
Antidote
           




Le Verre Vole'


February 2014


On Valentines Day, appropriately enough, I found myself, hand-in-hand with love and adventure. After a wonderful stroll through Paris we approached Le Verre Vole' before they were opened for the day. Our pilgrimage, which included a magical tour of the City of Lights, was leading us to drink at the altar of this holy of all natural wine wells. Someone outside was repairing something and inside tools lay on the floor, as my heart sunk, we inquired if they would open today.  To our hearts delight, they would open in 30 minutes.

It's where every true odyssey begins... at the beginning. This tiny cafe nestled in a secluded corner off the Canal Saint-Martin, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris, is rumored where Catherine & Pierre Breton first found a home to pour their wines. The natural producers and unfiltered wines haven't stopped flowing. But, don't think this is just a place to discover wines, the food is well worth the trip. It's a place to explore, share and fall in love.

Sante'!


http://leverrevole.fr/

Nedj Ma


In January, 2014, I was falling deeply in love; so, too, was my passion for living wines blossoming.

My first tastes of this new, odd (and not-so-forbidden, as much as hidden), 'fruit', were Nedj Ma and Hommage Robert. To my lips, these wines were like no other!

Whenever I taste that cidery, crisp, clean and earthy elixir my heart catches and I shiver with a memory of those months of love. Transported by just a sip. Nothing makes me feel more alive than love. And, it's hard to not love a wine so alive.