Guest Post: Purity Wine - 2013 Carignan

Purity Wine - 2013 Carignan, Evangelho Vineyard, Antioch, Contra Costa County

On the nose: dark fruit, some earthiness, a little lead pencil.

In the mouth:  soft, a tad sweet, a mix of ripe and stewed fruit but balanced by being bright and fresh. Simple and straightforward, it’s more California in the mouth than on the nose.  On my scale for natural wine (1-10, with 10 being the funkiest), I’d give this a 3. 

Let me first say that the reason I chose this bottle was that I’ve never had wine made from grapes from Antioch, California.  Just a bike ride away from where I live, Antioch is known, if anything, for being part of the massive easterly East Bay suburban sprawl.  Suffice to say I’d never seen vineyard in Antioch.  So I picked up this bottle almost laughing as I did so, but when I read the back label it was clear that this winemaker is of the new school, and quite serious about what he is doing.   The label explains the grapes came from 130 year old vines (!), carefully lays out the sulfite levels - 30 ppm were added at bottling, for a total of 50 ppm - and explains in more detail than I’ve seen on most other wine labels how the wine was made (the grapes “were picked early in the a.m. of 9/7” . . . a third of the grapes were “destemmed and returned to the whole to be trod by foot” and so on).  Whoa, I thought, a natural wine from Antioch!  Live and learn.

I happened to meet the winemaker, Noel Diaz, several days later at a natural wine fair in Oakland.  He wasn’t allowed to bring this Carignan, as the SO2 was too high to qualify (I think the cutoff was 30 ppm), but he was pouring a wonderful pét-nat, a rose, some kind of Cinsault-Granache blend, and a vat of an amazing golden-hued white (Marsanne I think).  All of which were firmly in the funky, natural category but in a very good way.   By contrast, this Carignan from Antioch might be categorized as a natural wine bike with training wheels:  fresh, simple, unmistakably Californian, but with a little bit of lees-y bite.  

- Reviewed by Sara Mann

Learn more about Purity Wines:  http://www.puritywine.net/#!wines/c161y

Els Bassotets Reunion

Cellars Escoda Sanahuja presents this beautiful white wine, Els Bassotets from Conca de Barbera in Catalonia, Spain. A blend of Macabeu and Chenin Blanc.

It's hard for me to express what it meant to find this wine at Punchdown last week. When I saw it on the menu, only for sale by-the-glass, I immediately was flooded with memories of the first time I tried it. 

I've already wrote about that magical evening in  the small village of Begur when we discovered it. Trying it again now, while so far from the place where love is spoken, was bittersweet. 

It brought me comfort to know that some things can come back to you and still be as wonderful as the first time you met.  

Le Raisin a Plume 'Le Moulin', Loire, France

I

I typically find Melon de Bourgogne (or, Melon) a bit challenging. Sometimes the wine seems too concentrated or not enough. However, I found this wine delightful. It seems to represent the best of what Melon can be. A little crisp with hints of lemon and sweet apple balanced with minerality that I often associate with 'saltiness'.  A real find for us on the West Coast and under $20. Now, the only challenge will be is to find more. 

Punchdown ... Round 1.

Punchdown re-opened in its new space a few weeks ago and I stopped by to check it out. Here's a look at Round 1 of many purchases to come. 

But, before you go, ask yourself, do you want to fall in love? Because, if you're like me, you will. With everything DC & Lisa have thoughtfully sourced for the shop and with them. 

I have tried almost all of the wines in the picture above- because, well, it is research. And, I have to say, I can not wait for Round 2! 

Jolly Ferriol, Chardonnay is reductive, interesting, salty like the sea and left me feeling warm and glowing -- like the sun. It's way too good to be under $20. But, don't tell them! Just go buy whatever is left. 

Francois Saint Lo, Le Chenin de Vie, is a Chenin Blanc that makes me wish I could drink only this wine, always. It represents all the things I love about Chenin Blanc and natural wine. And, it reminds me of chance meetings and falling in love. I think it's a good sign.

Assenza Falanghini by Antica Masseria Venditti makes me proud to be Italian and feel lucky to be alive. It's a 0/0 sulfite wine without adding any yeast or enzymes. The label and bottle are bold and sturdy but the wine is delicate, slightly floral and beautifully balanced. I feel like it holds itself with dignity and I feel safe with it in my hand.

So, yeah, these are all knock-outs. But, the best part about Punchdown can't be bottled. It's so much the effervescence of Lisa and the earthiness of DC. They are very well-balanced. 

Feeling very lucky to have such a great natural wine shop and restaurant in my backyard. 

Brumaire, Natural Wine Fair, RELOCATED: OAKLAND, CA

Like many who start out in San Francisco... Brumaire has relocated to OAKLAND, CA.  But, before you blame Obama, it seems an 'atmospheric river' is headed directly for Crissy Field. 

With the Presidio no longer an option the historic Starline Social Club Grand Ballroom is opening their doors to save natural wine fanatics of the Bay Area.

I'm always hoping for a natural wine event to come through town. Brumaire is more than this girl could ever hope.

Brumaire seems to live up to the promise that natural wine carries in spirit... wine, beauty, discovery, friendship, food and savoring. 

This event will include such producers as Julien Guillot, Hank Beckmeyer, Tony Coturri, Gideon Beinstock, Christophe Foucher and many others (see list below). The list is full of winemakers who represent a commitment to making wine that is true to the soil from which it grows.
  
It is no easy decision to farm and ferment naturally. This is hard work and deserves to be rewarded and enjoyed.

Additionally, many wine shops and restaurants will be hosting winemakers and dinners especially for the winemakers included in Brumaire.

To buy tickets: http://ordinairewine.com/shop

From Ordinaire: https://www.facebook.com/brumairesf/info/?tab=page_info

Preliminary producer list:
Joan Ramon Escoda
Laureano Serres (Mendall)
Cantina Giardino
Christophe Foucher (La Lunotte)
Julien Guillot (Clos des Vignes du Maynes)
Brendan Tracey
Bichi
Tony Coturri
Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron)
Chris Scanlan (Pain and Glory Cellars)
Ambyth Estate
Ryan Stirm (Stirm Wine Co.)
Chad Hinds (Methode Sauvage)
Living Wines Collective
Hank Beckmeyer (La Clarine Farm)
J Brix
Donkey & Goat
Purity Wines
Dani Rozman (La Onda)
La Garagista

"BRUMAIRE” is a wine tasting based in San Francisco, California. This event will bring together natural winemakers from Europe and the United States for the first time. It is conceived as a way for consumers, the press and the trade to meet producers, drink natural wine, and eat delicious food.

The main tasting will feature growers from Spain, France, Italy, and California and will take place on March 13th, from 12pm to 6pm, in the West Bluff Amphitheater at Crissy Field. The event is free for all attendees, with a suggested donation of $20, which includes a tasting glass and lunch. You may reserve in advance with DOMAINE LA or ORDINAIRE.

Other tastings, dinners and parties are being planned throughout the weekend with local caves, bars and restaurants.

Vinicola Torres Allegre, Del Viko, Baja, Mexico

Over the Summer I traveled to Mexico for a little exploring. And, of course, I was interested in tasting the wines of the region. While riding my bike in Tulum, I came across the intriguing, Le Tente Rose. Like so many spots in this beautiful beach town I couldn't help but park my bike & take a closer look. 

My attempts at inquiring about natural or organic wines were met with a blank look and a not-so-inspiring head tilt. So, with a little help from my iPhone I discovered Del Viko was made with a natural spirit and organic. So, with my adventurous spirit took a shot. And, it so glad I did! This French Colombard/ Chenin Blanc blend stands out of the crowd in a place of mostly budget California imports. It's crisp, complex, clean. And, it hails from a one of Mexico's elite winemakers, Victor Torres Alegre.  

What I also discovered was the wine movement of the Guadalupe Valley in Baja, Mexico. Filled with interesting wines, winemakers and craft beer enthusiasts. One winemaker I'm intrigued by is Perez Castro of Finca La Carrodilla. He is young, self-taught and seems to have an intense passion for sustaining life. The vineyards are full of wildlife, bees and grapes. In a recent interview he was quoted saying, "With a young wine, we are trying to pay respect to what the wine is giving us,". Sounds like a winemaker I might just like. The winery is also the only in the area to become certified organic. 

I think it's worth keeping an eye on this region and for these winemakers. And, here's to travel, adventure and wine. Muchas gracias!

A little more:
Vinicola Torres Alegre
One of Mexico's elite winemakers, Victor Torres Alegre (above), greeted tasters in the enclave devoted to wines produced in Mexico. Torres Alegre was the first in his country to earn a doctorate in enology. And guess where he got it? The University of Bordeaux. Previously winemaker for Château Camou, he now has his own winery, the Vinícola Torres Alegre y Familia in the Guadalupe Valley. Above are two of his wines. See more at: http://www.eatmx.com/wines-and-liquor/#sthash.6vi0g1dz.dpuf

Finca La Carrodilla: Perez Castro
See more at: http://www.eatmx.com/2015/08/finca-la-carrodilla.html#sthash.RPontsSt.dpuf

Un Saumon Dans la Loire 'La Boutanche' Rosé

Frantz Saumon makes some really good wines that are both seriously well-made and delicious. The gator label combined with the beautiful pink color just makes me want to be silly. It makes me hope that one sip will transport me back to blowing bubbles with my over-chewed gum, on a warm Summer day, while writing overly sappy teenage songs with my teenage best friend. It's a big order.

Thing is, it kind of delivers. Proof in the pictures. I kept forgetting to take a picture when the bottle was full! Which wasn't long. I gave it my best shot! Although, there's no bubble gum in this rose', there is refreshingly crisp, dense and delicious juice. I noted some herbaceous notes balancing a mouthful of beautiful red fruit (cherries!).

It's a well-priced jewel in the cannon of Rose's covering the walls of wine stores in the Bay Area. One note: I think this wine seems to have a little SO2. Not a dealbreaker but since I write this blog mostly so I can remember the rockstars from the impersonators -- it's worth a note.

However, it definitely rocks.

Julien Guillot,Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Pouilly Fuisse

This is a producer that I am so glad to know. Not too surprisingly, I came late to the Guillot party, but I'm just glad I showed up. And, I grabbed a drink.

I was first introduced to this producer in a blind tasting. I was taken immediately but the laser beam clarity of this Pouilly Fuisse which immediately made it stand out. To my palette it is delicate and so, so pretty. It's clarity, subtle floral notes and lovely balance gives this wine an edge. It's fine on it's own and lovely with food.

It's just got style. And, class. What else do you need? Well, I guess one thing... it doesn't have a lot to go around. I bought the only bottle left on site. But, I'm sure if you're intrigued... you'll succeed in finding another Guillot treasure.

A little more about Julien Guillot:
From: Not Drinking Poison http://notdrinkingpoison.blogspot.com/2015/05/julien-guillot-clos-des-vignes-du.html

Tucked among the fulsome green hills of Sagy-le-Haut is the cellar of Julien Guillot, the charming third-generation winemaker of biodynamic Mâconnais domaine Clos des Vignes du Maynes. Before returning to run the domaine in his late twenties, Guillot, who is of telegenic height and fresh-faced in his forties, had a career as an actor in France. He is conspicuously good at marketing his wines. Their prices in Paris and the US testify to this. His Bourgogne rouge "Cuvée Auguste" costs more than your average Marsannay.

What Clos des Vignes du Maynes' appellations lack in grandeur is made up for in the domaine's unimpeachable history and winemaking acumen. Julien's grandfather, Pierre Guillot, practiced a nascent version of organic viticulture ever since purchasing the domaine in 1954. Later, Julien's father Alain was instrumental in helping get the agriculture biologique (organic) logo approved by the French government in 1984. Julien, for his part, initiated the domaine's conversion to biodynamic viticulture in 1998. Upon hearing Guillot recount this in the anteroom of his cellar, my friend C posed a great question: "What did people in the region call 'organic' before 'organic' existed?"

Guillot grinned, and with the confidence that comes from having been right, replied, "Les conneries de Guillot," or 'Guillot's bullshit.' Read More

Laurent Saillard's Chenin Blanc, 'Lucky You!'

I discovered this wine when I asked for a recommendation to pair with a mild blue cheese. Although, I have come to think this wine is aptly named I had been avoiding it as I was initially turned off by the spirit of it. 

However, that was all quickly washed away after a few sips paired with a delicious Fourme d'Ambert.  

Although there is some volatility in this reasonably priced Chenin Blanc, I thought it stabilized enough to show off it's complexity. 

I found lovely mellow, even acidity combined with a distinctive minerality that always reminds me of the sea (and, love!). The fresh, happy experience I discovered at the start with this whimsical white wine was followed by a silky note of almond at the finish. 

Like getting a little prize in each bottle. It made this wine interesting, fun and enjoyable -- to the last sip. 

So, if you find a bottle, I'd definitely say, Lucky You!

A little more about the man, Laurent Saillard: 
From THIRST WINE MERCHANTS:

http://thirstmerchants.com/makers/laurent-saillard/

Laurent Saillard co-founded ICI, one of the first Brooklyn restaurants to focus on natural wines, and was part of the wave of restaurants that opened about a decade ago that were referred to as New Brooklyn Cuisine. We used to love going to ICI and spending time with him. He was always eager to share new and interesting wines.

Laurent left Brooklyn a few years ago and moved to the Loire to learn how to make the natural wines he’d enjoyed drinking and selling. He began by  working in the vineyards for Clos Roche Blanche and Noella Morantin. His first release under his own name, La Pause, was  the 2012 vintage. He continues to work for others during the week and to make his wines on the weekend.

Laurent currently makes two wines: a dry Chenin Blanc called Lucky You! and  a super fresh Gamay, La Pause.

Le Puits_2014 Olivier Lemasson

Le Puits, Vin de France, 2014, is a reflection of the soil and the sun from where it was born. The structure is very direct -- it presents itself very neatly with a brightness that guarantees it to be refreshing. Although, it clearly knows what and who it is -- it isn't just one note. That's just the beginning.

It is a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, with a hint of flint on the nose and aromas of ripe fruit when opened. The mouth is bright with wonderful acidity, citrus fruit, and a delicate undertone of vanilla. The alcohol for this vintage is 12%. It is perfect for a lazy late afternoon in the sun and all Summer long.

Just as an observation, I seem to be noticing more Vin de France (French table wines) establishing a place in the natural wine marketplace. The reasons for having to designate the wine as Vin de France seems steeped in history, territory and bureaucracy -- but from what I can tell, after drinking Le Puits, it isn't about quality (anymore). 

Olivier Lemasson has a wonderful story that begins as a Sommelier in Brittany, France, many years ago. The story goes he stumbled across natural wines then and hasn't stopped pursuing these odd wines since. A spark was ignited in him that put him on a path where now he has practically achieved cult wine status -- and is selling his many varietals at places such as, Le Verre Volé and many more. Apparently, his rose', 'Pow Blop Wizz' is a must-have for Summer, if you can find it.

His many different wines all have playful names, and come from organic farms, or his own small parcel. Although, he seems to have a whimsical side, he also seems to apply a serious focus when it comes to his winemaking practices; no yeasts, no filtration and minimal intervention (sometimes adding sulphites when needed -- however, I couldn't tell if he did in this vintage). 

By all accounts, Olivier is full of personality, passion and a rich history -- just like this wine. And, I can't wait to come back to the well and try more.

http://www.lesvinscontes.com/

Purchased at Ordinaire, Oakland
Approx. $20

Bengoetxe Getariako Txakolina 2012

This wine is perfect for a warm day, and by today's wine standards, a good deal at $20 a bottle. It doesn't hurt that it's from Spain, either.  

I found it refreshing and lively. Its complexity is enhanced by the balance of subtle apple, bright lemon and the perfect amount of acidity -- which makes it a pleasure to drink. 

The low alcohol and mineral finish compliment this wine and when paired with cheese, salty meats or smoked fish it's wonderful.  

The farmhouse, on the label, sits in the middle of this fully organic farm which is tended exclusively by hand in Olaberria; about 30 miles inland from San Sebastian. No chemicals are used at the vineyard, or in the cellar  -- making it a biodynamic farm and a very natural wine, as well. 

Despite having had this philosophy since the beginning, the owners, Iñaki and Rosa Mari Exteberria had to pursue a D.O. classification rigorously. They were granted D.O. status in 2009. 

For this area, I think this is a rare wine  -- both in production standards and, for me, in quality. It is a wonderful example of what living wines can be when allowed to show their true expression of place and time -- not to mention love. 

Another treasure from España.

This label is to help you read the name. It is not the correct vintage

http://www.josepastorselections.com/bengoetxe.html

Alice & Olivier De Moor_Aligote 2013

I was intrigued by this wine after I read about the de Moor's, Alice and Olivier. I read about their commitment to creating natural wines, on small plots, in Chablis. The story presented the couple as a united front tending their vineyards by hand and creating their natural wines together. Some important aspects of their creations include farming organically and sustainably, using natural yeast and oak barrels. I liked what I read and I've kept an eye out for their bottled time since. The search finally came to an end last week when my quest for interesting wines led me to a little corner of the wine store where this bottle was tucked away. I'm not sure why it was so hidden, but my guess, someone was coveting it. I know I would.

I was so excited to try it. It didn't disappoint. Crisp and full-bodied - it went well with truffle cheese and perfect for salty crackers. The rich finish pairs well with sweet potato fries and the subtle apple flavor was a wonderful companion to smoked salmon and a simple salad.

I hear this vintage of Aligote', 2013, is a low yield, so there isn't much; but they produce quite a few wines, so if you see the de Moors on your search for wonderful natural wines -- I think you'll find you're in good hands.

Frederic Cossard, Bigotes 2012

What can I tell you? From the moment I opened this wine and sampled its subtle hint of lemon, limestone and vanilla I was under its spell. 

I can tell you I remember drinking it and loving it with each sip and each bite. I remember it was full-bodied and balanced with crisp acidity. At one moment, I would think it was lemony and in another I would pick up on the earthy vanilla base. It was all pure pleasure. 

It was a gift and since my only real impression was 'More!'... off  I went to the wine store to do just that, buy more. 

This is when I found out why the two women on the label seem to be in such shock! The price is over $50.00/btl. Not that it isn't worth it, however, for such an investment I would have liked to have shared it; especially, since it's a limited release and even so, a bit pricey for me to consider anything other than an indulgence.  

I now like to think of the 2 women on the label as me and, my friend, Sara (...without any connection to the provocative name of this far from offensive wine). Sara gave me the wine as a birthday gift. She is also a fan of natural wines.

Here's how I am choosing to see the label:  scene: two (open-minded & compassionate) old friends. Sara, in the pink hat, telling me what a special wine she thought the Bigotes is and hoping we can share it. Me, in the chic, orange kerchief, aghast, I already drank it and all alone! And, I enjoyed every sip. 

About this wine:

Frédéric Cossard has always wanted to become a winemaker. In 1996, he had the opportunity to get some small plots in Saint-Romain and Auxey-Duresses. The size of his domaine has regularly increased since then. He works in a very “eco-friendly” way, using no chemicals, fertilisers or pesticides. This simple “Bourgogne Chardonnay” is made out of a very small plot, planted with only chardonnay grapes located next to Puligny-Montrachet. It appears elegant, well balanced and quite fresh, like all the wines he produces. The nose consists of light citrus fruits and lemon aromas and a little bit of noble roasted oak.

https://www.wine-beast.com/frederic-cossard-bigotes-2011-0-75.html

Ordinaire

I'm sitting in the sunny window at Ordinaire discussing with Giovanni the right words to describe 'Ordinaire'. It occurs to us, between sips of rose', that if it were a wine it would be our favorite!

If it were a wine, I might talk about the hints of french lavender and earthy oak that invite you to drink it in. I might try to explain how it's balanced and complex -- and how its character is complimented by the knowledgeable staff and the diversity of their customers. It's an experience for everyday, any day... today.

Bradford, the proprietor, thoughtfully
explaining the by-the-glass selections

To continue the theme, if it were music it would be Marley softly and convincingly crooning "...everything little thing will be alright" ...but, instead of a beach in Jamaica or a window seat in Oakland, you're in France, on a secluded bench overlooking the rolling, green hills of Ardeche -- in the warm afternoon sunlight, shaded by an old Cedar tree. There, you're sipping you're favorite wine with your favorite people. That's what Ordinaire can do... transport you.

Oakland is so fortunate to have a comfortable natural wine bar that puts itself squarely at the intersection of 'Friendly' and 'Cool'. You'll find interesting, rare and lovely natural wines combined with the area's (and beyond) up-and-coming and established - but difficult to reach -- chef's preparing exciting dishes in the occasional pop-up bistro (lucky if you find yourself there on a night Josh is cooking!).

Ordinaire vibrates with the culture I associate with natural wines; good food, natural ingredients, friends and sharing. Simple ...but not always easy.

I'm here on a Tuesday and Team Sabertime (Giovanni & Travis) are pouring -- and it feels like I just entered the familiar sunny home of a dear friend. Whether they know me or not, I am treated like a most-welcomed guest. As are the babies and dogs to my left, the energetic 20-something set behind me, and the newly initiated to natural wines from all ages and stages of life. All are welcome.

Yes, it's perfect for everyday -- it is vin Ordinaire, afterall, but it's also for those interested in experiencing something natural, soulful and different in a comfortable environment.

And, since it is a wine bar, a toast...

"May you thrive and prosper in good health, great friends and good wine. Sante! " 

                                                                                                             http://ordinairewine.com/

3354 GRAND AVENUE 

OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA

Vinos Ambiz_Albillo 2013

I have written about Vinos Ambiz in the past and I am a fan of their Chelva. 

Vinos Ambiz is the creation of Fabio Bartolomei who is producing amazing wine in Spain. All his wines, so far, are made from lesser-known, odd varietals -- which I think make them interesting and exciting to try. I discovered Fabio's wines, while traveling in Spain, and researching natural winemakers in the area. We couldn't find them there, but, since, I've sampled some of his efforts, and had an opportunity to talk with Jose Pastor (U.S. importer) about them. In all cases, I'm reassured of their uniqueness and Fabio's commitment to always be natural. And, so far, in my experience, these things ring true.

However, the Albillo is so high in alcohol I find it unapproachable. The nose has characteristics similar to Moscato with orange and honeysuckle springing to mind but it was all lost when I took a sip due to the alcohol. Unfortunately, I was only able to take a few more sips before my head was throbbing -- and my heart sinking. 

That's OK, I'll always have Chelva. Well, until it's gone. 

And, Vinos Ambiz has a wonderful blog: http://vinosambiz.blogspot.com/

The Wine Label: Going Organic

The Wine Label: Organic

In the U.S., there are strict labeling laws for wine. Wine labels—which must be pre-approved by TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco, Tax and Trade Bureau) —explains the bureau, are an important source of information for consumers.

Just as clarification, when I write 'strict labeling laws' it's not that I think the information is very important to a consumer, especially, in comparison to what the FDA requires on food. And, if you thought the FDA was narrow with their labels, wine is almost non-existent.  However, information requested by the TTB must be on the label for the wine to legally sell in the U.S.. In actuality, for a consumer, aside from which artwork you prefer, the label is pointless in terms of what ingredients made that wine.

The USDA is the certifying entity in the U.S. for food and beverages that want to use the term 'Organic' on their label. 

In order to receive approval to use the term 'Organic' on a wine label a producer must meet the following:

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1. Must develop, submit and implement an organic system plan to the USDA.

2. 100% of all grapes must be certified organic (no synthetic fertilizers, etc...).

3. All methods to convert grapes to wine must be certified organic (yeasts, etc..).

4. Any non-agricultural ingredients must be allowable per the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances and can not exceed 5% of the total product.  

5. No sulfites (sulfur dioxide) can be added.

*(To use 100% Organic a wine product must use 100% organic products eliminating #4's 5% buffer allowance)

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Wine in the U.S. sold, labeled, or represented as “made with organic grapes” must meet these criteria: 

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1. 100 percent of all grapes (of all varietals) must be certified organic. 

2. Any remaining agricultural ingredients (e.g., yeast) are not required to be organic, but must be produced without excluded methods. 

3. Any non-agricultural ingredients must be specifically allowed on the National List (link above). 

4. Sulfur dioxide (sulfites) may be added to yield less than 100 parts per million in finished grape wine, but may not be added to wine “made with” other organic fruit (e.g., apples). 

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Source:  USDA Organic labeling Guidelines

For more legal information: 
Lindsey Zahn is an alcohol beverage & food attorney in NY: On Reserve: A Wine Law Blog

Next up... To Certify or Not-to-Certify

A Toi Nous_ Andrea Calek

Andrea Calek is kind of like a rock star. And, the Bay Area is in love with him. He was born in Czechoslovakia (a country of contradictions, for sure!) but settled in Ardeche' after taking the long way around. His story is very interesting (if you're curious see the link below). His vineyard practices and winemaking techniques are reportedly as natural as they come.

He is said to be a bit rowdy, messy, hard to define and 'wild' (kind of sounds like he's having fun, huh?)-- and his wines, well there's nothing messy about them, they are considered nirvana. His mentor's are nothing short of legends in the handpicked fields of natural wines. And, he, in his own right, has developed a reputation for very technically accurate and a meticulous approach to producing good wines.

I was definitely intrigued. Everyone seemed to be buzzing with the name Andrea' Calek. At Terroir, Ordinaire and Paul Marcus people would smile at me, gleefully adorning grins of garnet-hued teeth, and tell me about their new 'favorite' wine. Finally, I wanted to drink-the-'Koolaid'.  So, I went with the only wine I could find of Andrea's, after his whirlwind tour of my city, which was a red Rhone blend.

It was a daring choice for me, given my track record with red wines. The nose was so beautiful; herbaceous (rosemary and lavender created an aromatic tour of a French garden), notes of lush berries made my mouth water and, finally, rounding it all out, earth and egg (I know, weird -- but true)! Finally, I couldn't wait and took a sip from which I was instantly reminded, with a burning sensation, that like so many other bold and beautiful red wines my body rejects them -- right at the moment it passes near my heart.

I think maybe I said something unpleasant to a supernatural winemaker and a curse was put on me (not to be all magical thinking about it -- but it makes sense, yes?).

I know it's OK though, Andrea' seems to have many groupies that are all willing to take my place -- and, although I'm a bit jealous of them -- it's probably for the best.  A Toi Nous.

http://www.tedwardwines.com/Andrea-Calek-P9506.aspx

Sophia & Adam ...are adorable. I.G.T Campania Bianco "Sophia"

For my birthday, I treated myself to one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco. The 'City' has many wonderful restaurants but SPQR is special to me for many reasons. I showed up before they opened and they let me take pictures before dinner started. It's such a beautiful space that I was touched by the attention to detail in every aspect. If you're not careful, you could fall in love in a space like this.

The restaurant has evolved over time to become an inventive yet approachable and exciting experience. The service is friendly and knowledgeable -- as well as very adept. SPQR has also expanded their wine selection to include a wonderful (if not small) natural wine offering. Another delightful aspect is that their bartenders can share stories about the wines and provide a detailed description of their unique natural wines -- as well as suggestions.

Here is where I discovered Sophia. This wine is so interesting. It's weight is balanced by chewy, bright acid, spicy herb and sweet ripe fruit making it refreshing and delicious. It's wonderful to begin the night with but I don't think Sophia is sticking around. She's exciting, full bodied and very adventurous -- I can tell she would demand my full attention and as I mentioned SPQR has many good things to offer. I can't wait until I find myself in her company again although she's a rare find. SPQR always has this effect on me -- in love and wanting more.

The winemakers behind "Sophia" and "David", as well as a few more labels, make their wines from ancient grapes, Fiano and Greco. The vineyards are located in Italy and were planted in the 1930's. The story goes, they have always been harvested, and the wine produced, using 'special techniques' or what's also known as 'methode ancestrale' -- although this term is most often associated with sparkling wine which these wines are not. Their wines are fermented using indigineous yeast and limited intervention --  in steel, barrels and in homemade amphora's sealed with beeswax which can not be broken open until the wine is done to prevent oxidation. The winemakers trust that the wine will produce what is meant to be for that years labor of love. 

I think 'Sophia' is an apt name, translated in English (from Greek) to 'Divine Wisdom'.

I.G.T Campania Bianco "Sophia"

Azienda Agricola COS and SPQR

Continuing the birthday celebration (See blog post, 'Sophia & Adam') -- I was offered a few more suggestions to pair with creations coming from the kitchen. When COS was first poured I wasn't sure. I decided it was a new bottle and might benefit from some time.

When the first course arrived I savored a bite and then sipped COS again -- it was heaven. What was once acidic, hot with alcohol and bitter -- had become silky and subtle. The structure was remarkable; the acid, now, more subtle and not overbearing -- but, I will say, to me, it's a 'food' wine.

It snuck in to all the right places and turned a little light on all the flavor components of the vegetable brioche I started the evening with -- the dance between wine and food was elegant and masterful. And, like a good dance partner, this wine lead me with confidence and grace throughout the second course before it slipped away leaving me with the feeling we would meet again.

I couldn't wait to learn more about this interesting wine and the winemakers. The story is almost better than the wine. I was seduced by statements such as,

"This would help them find and maintain a harmonious balance with nature, as well as craft wines that are as representative as possible of their time and place." 

I find that kind of thing exciting.

The vineyard was purchased by 3 friends in the '80's and they once held the title as the youngest winemakers in Italy. In the 1990's they adopted biodynamic vineyard practices and in 2000 received a shipment of clay amphora's (currently said to have one of largest collections in the world) and began a new identity by reclaiming ancient cellar practices -- as was done in ancient Greece.

Although they now seem more like the mega-conglomerates of Napa Valley and may have lost that earthy, hands on,  farm-to-table vibe that is so appealing -- the wine seems to know from where it roots came.

I think this winery is special and worth your time.

http://www.cosvittoria.it/english/

http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2013/04/the-other-cos--a-sicilian-success-story